Encontro Internacional de Nanotecnologia “Os Pilares Fundamentais da Nanotecnologia na Indústria Cosmética”International Meeting: “The Fundamental Pillars of Nanotechnology in the Cosmetic Industry”

May 17, 2012

8:30am

Registration and Welcome Coffee

9:00am

Opening of 1st Day

9:30am

Nanotechnology – The Global Overview of Launch Activity and Key Trends, Jane Henderson, President of the Mintel Beauty Division, UK (confirmed)

The presentation gives insight into the use of nanotechnology and nano sized ingredients in launches of key beauty and personal care categories such as skin and hair care. Further, this presentation looks to explore trends in claims and concepts and news related to these launches across the globe.

10:10am

Conclusions of the study “Nanotechnologies: a contribution to the problem of risk and regulation”, Mario Jorge Teixeira Sampaio, Specialist in Economic Analysis of Projects, ABDI – Brazilian Agency for Industrial Development, BRAZIL (confirmed)

10:50am

Coffee Break

PILLAR 1: Research and Formulation

11:10am

Formulations of Nanotechnologies for Skin Application: Structure and Fate, Prof. Ph.D. Elias Fattal , Univ Paris Sud, Faculté de Pharmacie, FRANCE (confirmed)

Skin delivery is among the first route of administration where nanotechnologies, called liposomes, were applied in cosmetic products in the beginning of the 1980’s. It is possible today to design a huge number of nanotechnologies among which some have been introduced in cosmetic products. They can be divided into two types: organic and inorganic nanoparticles.

Nanoparticles made of organic materials include liposomes and associated structures (niosomes®, ethosomes®, elastic vesicles, transfersomes®…), solid lipid nanoparticles, polymer nanoparticles and nanoemulsions. Formulating such systems without any active ingredient make their fabrication simple. However, the main application of nanotechnologies is to deliver active compounds. The challenge in terms of formulation resides in the selection of the right nanotechnology and the optimized methodology to produce them providing that is possible to design particles with adequate size, surface properties and high drug loading. Stability of nanotechnologies should also be guaranteed. Nanoparticles made of inorganic materials include fullerenes or metal oxide. These nanoparticles have their own functionality either as antioxidant for fullerenes or sunscreens for titanium dioxide.

The challenge in terms of delivery is to allow these particles to reach the right target. Nevertheless, it is now recognized that mostly all these nanoparticles after skin application remain at the surface of the skin until they are cleared intact or after disruption of their initial structure. Their constituents can however diffuse across the skin and modify the barrier properties. They can also distribute in the pilo-sebaceous follicles reaching the deep layers of the skin. Moreover, inorganic small nanoparticles, due to their low diameter (under 10 nm) might also cross the skin and accumulate in the organism without being eliminated.

The presentation will focus on discussing the physico-chemical characteristics of each nanotechnology in regard to its fate after skin administration.

12:00pm

What you should know about a nanomaterial to buy it from a supplier: what are their characteristics for application in hair products or skin, Prof. Ph.D. Sílvia Stanisçuaski Guterres, UFRGS – Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul, BRAZIL (confirmed)

We will present the main features for the recognition of a nanomaterial for cosmetic application, including the raw materials, functionalities, physico-chemical characteristics and supramolecular organization. We will discuss examples of advantages and opportunities of incorporating different types of nanomaterials in cosmetics

12:50pm

What are the differences between the nanomaterials used in skin or hair care products? What questions should be asked to formulate or purchase nanomaterials? The principles to formulate products with the use of nanomaterials, Prof. Ph.D. Nelson Durán, Unicamp – University of Campinas, BRAZIL (confirmed)

1:40pm

Lunch Break

PILLAR 2: Nanometrology

3:00pm

The importance of the measurement of nanomaterials, of reference samples or standards, and what specifically is being done about nanometrology for cosmetics, Prof. Ph.D. Carlos Achete, INMETRO – National Institute of Metrology, Quality and Technology, BRAZIL (confirmed)

3:50pm

Techniques for characterization of nanomaterials applied to cosmetics, Natalia Pereira Neto Cerize, Researcher of IPT – Technological Research Institute, Center for Technology Processes and Products, Laboratory of Chemical Processes and Particle Technology (confirmed)

It will be presented some characterization techniques applied to nanomaterials (nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, liposomes, nanospheres, etc.) including: morphology, particle size, zeta potential, surface area, among others. Also, an approach to the characterization of nanomaterials incorporated into cosmetic products.

16h20

Roundtable

Mediator: Carlos Praes, coordinator of Nanotechnology groups of ABIHPEC– Brazilian Association of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Industry and ITEHPEC – Institute of Technology and Studies of Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance

5:00pm

Closing

May 18, 2012

8:30am

Registration and Welcome Coffee

PILLAR 3: Safety of nanomaterials and proof of safety, from research to consumer

9:00am

Safety Assessment of cosmetic products containing nanomaterials. A focus on the safety of nano-ingredients, Pedro Amores da Silva, INFARMED – National Authority of Medicines and Health Products, PORTUGAL (confirmed)

The global debate about the safety of nanomaterials aims to establish methods for evaluating these new ingredients to the consumer by providing guarantees of their safety. It will be discussed the security methodology that will be used in Europe for these ingredients.

9:50am

Approaches to Safety of Nanomaterials and Compliance to Regulations in the Cosmetics Sector, Prof. Ph.D. Qasim Chaudhry, Principal Research Scientist at The Food and Environment Research Agency (Fera), U.K. (confirmed)

The presentation will highlight main safety concerns in relation to the use of nanomaterials in cosmetic products. It will also describe the current approaches to ensuring safety of nanomaterials in different regulatory jurisdictions, and highlight the main challenges in safety assessment of nanomaterials in cosmetic formulations.

10:40am

Coffee Break

11:00am

Clarifications about the safety of nanomaterials. Present tests /studies conducted for the nanomaterials that have been proven safe (to be confirmed)

11:50am

Safety of cosmetics containing nanoingredients: what changes? How and why to monitor the product on the market?,Dr. Flávia Addor, Technical Director of Medcin Skin Institute, BRAZIL (confirmed)

The nanoingrients in cosmetics are a reality today. The proof of safety of an innovation of this magnitude not only involves the toxicological evaluation, but also the post-sale monitoring: the cosmetovigilance will bring a wealth of information on the safety profile, essential for the rational assessment of future developments.

12:40pm

Lunch Break

Pillar 4: Proof of efficacy of products with nanomaterials

2:00pm

Disposition of nanomaterials applied to the skin: assessment and imaging, Prof. Ph.D. Richard Henry Guy, University of Bath, Department of Pharmacy & Pharmacology, Bath, U.K. (confirmed)

Intact skin presents a formidable barrier to the penetration and permeation of xenobiotics, as well as providing protection to bacterial invasion. The skin’s least permeable layer, the outer stratum corneum, primarily restricts the insensible loss of tissue water; as such, it also limits very efficiently the inward transport of chemicals contacting the skin. For molecular penetration, structure-transport relationships have been deduced and show that lipophilicity and size are crucial determinants of transdermal absorption; chemicals having molecular weights much greater than ~1000 Daltons penetrate the skin very poorly, if at all.

The development of nanotechnology, and the ubiquitous presence of nanoparticles (and other nano-structures), has appropriately raised questions of safety, exposure and risk assessment. Already, such structures are present in cosmetic formulations, for example, and are regularly coming into contact with human skin. As the incidence of such exposure is only likely to increase in the future, it is reasonable to question the fate of nanoparticles, which contact the skin, and to develop techniques (e.g., coherent Raman scattering, confocal microscopy) to assess the residence time of these species on and within the skin and to evaluate their degree of interaction with the barrier.

2:50am

Efficacy and safety of nanotechnologies designed for skin application, Prof. Ph.D. Elias Fattal, Univ Paris Sud, Faculté de Pharmacie, FRANCE (confirmed)

The efficacy of nanotechnologies to deliver drugs across the skin have been widely documented for vesicular systems including liposomes which were reported to enhance the delivery of a variety of active drugs, including triamcinolone, methotrexate, hydrocortisone, tretinoin, tacrolimus, rhodamine, cyclosporin and antiandrogens. Reports on cosmetic actives are, however, much less available. Despite these observations, other groups have shown that there is no change in the delivery of drugs compared to classical preparations. Nevertheless, transdermal delivery using liposomes as carriers has been illustrated in a few cases where the entrapped drug was able to cross all skin layers. A number of studies have demonstrated that the vesicle composition (e.g. inclusion of skin lipids, positively charged lipids, presence of surfactants in the bilayer may have an effect on substance permeation. The state of the lipid bilayers of the vesicles, namely the liquid crystal phase or gel phase, also affects dermal and transdermal delivery: liquid crystal state vesicles may be more effective. Such results have been confirmed in vivo. Other physico-chemical properties, such as particle charge, particle size and lamellarity, might also influence the degree of substance transport. Other vesicles than liposomes have been devised with the aim to improve transdermal and topical delivery of substances. Examples of these include vesicles made of non-ionic surfactants (niosomes®) vesicles containing a high percentage of ethanol (ethosomes), ultraflexible vesicles (transfersomes®).

There are fewer reports involving nanoemulsions or nanocapsules. However as for vesicles there are large discrepancies between them. Whereas some show a clear enhancement of the transport of active drugs, others observe that drug encapsulation reduces the percutaneous absorption.

Concerning the safety, whereas no toxicity was detected for organic particles, some undesired effects varying from an inflammatory response to genotoxicity were observed in vitro with inorganic nanoparticles which in case of internalization could induce some harmful effects after skin application.

3:40am

Roundtable

Mediator: Prof Ph.D. Silvia Guterres, UFRGS – Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil

In addition to the roundtable debate, a chart will be presented with the consolidation of the key points of each pillar that were addressed during the two days of the Meeting. Also, a document will be produced with a summary of all the points discussed about nanotechnology. The document will be submitted to governmental authorities as an input for the construction of appropriate policies for the development of nanotechnology.

4:30pm

Ending